>>the official website with information on the risks etc does not fill you with confidence.

...bearing in mind these are the same folks who allegedly discussed painting "UN" on the side of a plane and fly it over Iraqi airspace in the hopes that Saddam would shoot it down and start the war himself.

I spent the month of February in Iran. On the last day of ashura I was in a room with 20 highly charged Shia Muslims preparing to perform their holiest act of the year, "ghameh zani". They all had swords, the door was closed and everyone knew I was an American.

They served me cocoa and proceeded into the street, whereby they cut the tops of their heads open. They were some of the nicest guys I've ever met and repeatedly told me how proud they were to have me there.

Of course we assume some risk no matter where we travel - I was once told in the bathroom of Bar Rhumba in London that no one liked me because I was from the States - but I'd have to say Iran was one of the safest, friendliest places I've ever been. Iranians don't get out of their country much and they don't get a lot of visitors, so when presented with the opportunity they like to show off their legendary hospitality. In Kashan alone, I was given several free rides, a free after-hours tour of one Qajari house and a free pass to another as well as Tappeh Sialk simply because I was American.

It should be noted that as an American I had to have a guide. On the way out of the Esfahan bazaar I sheepishly asked him if the people would be as nice to me if he wasn't by my side. He looked at me perfectly befuddled and said, "Yeah. They *really* like you."

One of my favorite moments was near Hasht Behesht in Esfahan. Some kids were horsing around, asking me whether I favored Esteghlal or Persepolis, wanting me to tell them American jokes. A fully-fatigued soldier arrived with a very serious countenance. He dispersed the kids and interrogated my guide, demanding to know why our hotel hadn't registered me with the Foreign Police office. After sorting that out he turned to me and asked,

"You're an American?"

>>"Yes, sir."

"I know American... literature. Beat Generation. Kerouac. Ginsburg."

My guide informed me that the three stars on his uniform indicated he had a master's degree. I told him I didn't think anyone in the American military had read Kerouac or Ginsburg. The soldier shook my hand, apologized profusely, impressing upon me that it was his duty to make sure I had a safe trip in Iran.

Different Steve,

Awesome story.

So then, Americans can get a visa for Iran? I was under the impression that we couldn't.

Really amazing. What a place to go!

The "Official" briefings are ALWAYS conservative, almost everywhere. I believe they are (1) prepared by people who maybe focus on the risks and negatives, their job is to deal with problems. (2) They may rarely leave their sheltered housing compound or fortress-like embassy office, except by chouferred car. (3) They frankly would rather you didn't complicate their life by getting lost or damaged. They also have official protocols they must follow.

So read them for what they are worth; but read between the lines. In country, it is often good to register with your Embassy and get the travel briefing -- but again you've gotta take it all with a lot of salt. You can also talk with some of the less "official" less restricted members of the foreign community. As a traveler, with real experience and street-smarts, you should be able to read the situation enough to set your own limits.

Even in a really dicy situattion, travelers are often ignored, looked-after or protected by local people on the street. Set your own limits, proceeding step by step. At each check point, re-assess and either proceed or not. Obviously don't be doing stupid things like taking photos between a mob of rioters and the police. Always stay very aware of your situation, and have an alternate escape plan. If it ever starts to feel wrong; act immediately, turn and get out.

With some basic fundamental travel skills, you should be able to travel safely most places. Sure there are a few high risk countries and specific high risk areas areas or high risk activities. But if you do your research, you can make your own evaluation. And, asking local folks who live there, or travelers recently there, should give a more accurate picture than the "official" briefings alone.

Most places, you'll be fine. Best wishes.

The UK Home Office website just says to avoid certain areas (border of Iraq). It doesn't say to not go at all. It also says the same thing about Israel, the Phillipines and various other places.

I've done lots of reading about Iran and am going there if I can get a visa. Currently UK citizens are apparently only being granted visas on an organised tour which I suspect why my application was rejected. I'm a dual national so currently applying on another passport.

Read through the various Thorntree Iran threads for suggestions on places to go, etc.

I think you'll be safe, whether you're with a guide or not.

I went to Iran last July, fantastic place, never once felt nervy and the people were nicer than people back home!!!

GO!!! youll love it !

JH

Iran isn't a dangerous country at all. just go there and see the greatest unsung highlight of Iran: its people!

Everything I have read on Iran assures me that it is indeed a very safe country to visit and travel in. The Thorn Tree blog on Lonely Planet is a great place to read and confirm this ! Every traveller that visits Iran raves about the hospitality and kindness of the people and all would happily return again. I've been looking forward to visiting Iran for years and have read up a lot of the history and culture in anticipation. I won't be happy now until I finally get there !!

That's the question that requires answer from some real legal experts. Have you tried consulting proper authorities regarding your problem? good luck dear... i hope someone out there will give you clear answers on that.

I bow down hlumby in the presence of such greatness.