Dear James,
My knowledge of the current status in Iran is not very up-to date since I left Iran for more than a decade ago. Though being born there, I do consider myself to know more than your average Joe.
The government of Iran IS part of the axis of evil. But the people (at least the great majority) are definitely the most Western-friendly people in the whole the Middle East (Israel included!). In addition, there are not so many tourists; therefore people I guess are friendlier.
Living on a tight budget is possible, but as foreigners (as I recall) you can be asked to pay more for hotel than citizens. Even when paying for virtually anything you may have to pay more than a citizen. This of course is pertinent to almost all tourists in all countris, but there is virtually never any price tag on any item. You can of course learn after sometime. The best way to avoid this is probably relying on some local as a translator/guide. Even my mom, who sometimes visits Iran, notes that prices could go up as soon as people figure out her place of residence.
In your letter, you make no mention of where in Iran you want to be, how long and what places you want to visit. Safety, sanitation and level of English understanding are hugely dependent on where you stay. In Tehran, I would say people speak as well as many touristy countries. In rural areas, it is sign language that should rescue you guys.
Though many claim that the level of freedom for people has increased, avoid seriously these topics: Religious and political talks. Forget pork and alcohol. Don't look at women, never! Avoid talking to women as much as possible. If you are invited to some Iranian friends that's another issue, but based on your questions I don't think you have any local friends yet.
Prices for transport are very cheap. Public transport is regulated and no problem. Taxis could prove to be tricky though, as meters are non-existent.
Is it safe for the British people? If your government angers Tehran, sometimes big foreign merchants are accused of moral crimes and are used as leverage against European governments. You are safe with normal people, and in this regard Iran is the safest country in the region. I assume you are not rich, so probably no use to Iranian government. Sorry for being blunt!
Visa? I really don't know, because I have never needed it. I have heard it's hard but that's just hearsay.
In summary, my best recommendation is to find an Iranian friend and have him as a guide. He (most preferably a ÃâheÃâ) can take you to places and show you the real hospitality of Iranians and he should know what is safe and what's not. There should be plenty of Iranians in Britain, right?
Have a safe and nice trip
Michael

Dear James,
Hello,

I am Majid from Iran, living in Kerman. I am familiar with the situation of Iran and your worry about Iran is caused by lots of negative advertisements against Iran for political conflicts between Iran and Europe and US.
Let's make it clear that Iranian people are hospitable and friendly toward all nations even the british and the americans which their politicians are against Iranian policies.
People here do not consider political conditions in their behaviour toward foreigners. All tourists are safe even Danish tourists. And let me say here that Iraq situation has not influenced iranian attitude attitude toward british and american tourists.
You be sure Iran is a safe country for you and any foreigner. Also you can find cheap hotels, inns, restaurants and transfer. Overally Iran is a cheap country for European travellers.
As my last information about visa, recently Iran has made it easier. Every tourist can get a 15 days visa in Tehran's airport. Besides it is extendable for 15 days more. For further information the better way is to contact with iranian embassy in London.
Along with other services and goods in Iran, food is nearly cheap.
I wish you a nice trip in Iran,
Majid

I might be a little biased as I am married to an Iranian,but I have visited Iran twice in the past 3 years and am going back in May. That must say something...
As such I find the Iranian people VERY friendly, kind and always willing to help. Of course it is made easier by having a Farsi speaker, but people see you are a foreigner and say Salam or 'hello' to you in the streets.Try to learn at least a little Farsi i.e. Salam =Hello, Hodafez = Goodbye Billet = tickets,etc
As 2 young male travellers I would advise a little caution over looking at the women - but there again the pictures in the media, and sadly to say even the BBC are exagerated and not every woman is dressed in the black chador of the British news reels. Many of the young girls, especially in Tehran, are very beautiful and like to wear bright colours and are like young people everywhere.
As for eating and staying in Tehran there are very cheap places and many of the sandwiches shops are great value.One American girl I met had stayed at a small hotel in Tehran which was the equivilent of £3 per night.
Having said that if you are looking for the 'old Persia' of the magic carpet days I am sorry to say you will be most disappointed - especially Tehran, This city is the urban planners nightmare, poluted and vastly overcrowded with cars,and as you can imagine with a booming population, building going on everywhere. On the plus side it has many nice parks and open spaces as Tehranis love getting out and about on their days off....
I imagine your trip will be more difficult then mine as I have stated, I have a Farsi speaking husband and my mother-in-laws home to stay in, but I have travelled widely in Iran visiting Esfahan ( fabulous, beautiful city) Shiraz ( very historic with Perspolis on its door step) Yazd ( very friendly and close to the Zorestian Fire temple) and stayed in local hotels.These all being middle and top of the range admittedly but there are many to choose from, and some very reasonable.
This year I am off to Tabriz and Ormeih travelling overnight in a first class cabin on a train....four berth and around £10, per berth,cheap or what? And very clean...
All I say is be careful, be polite,and remember there is NO alchol. The logistics maybe more difficult than going on your average package tour - but you sound adventerous ( spelling??)open minded and willing to compromise.I think you may find that this could be the start of a wonderful relationship with 'other' travel destinations.
One last thing - about visas - check with the Iranian embassy in London and they will advise you or with a reputable Iranian travel agency.
Hope this helps, sorry for rambling - have a wonderful trip.